[Lex Computer & Tech Group/LCTG] refrig

Tue Aug 27 14:45:19 PDT 2024

All,

Based on my experience in the distant past with disembodied refrigerator
compressors used as vacuum pumps
There are two likely candidates --

one fixable -- get a replacement capacitor for a handful of $

the other the compressor is unable to accelerate due to dirt or some other
internal failure -- only fixable by a pro with a new compressor and new
refrigerant -- probably a junker

My money is on the capacitor as they eventually all fail

Ted

PS: the coils being really dirty might make the compressor run longer --
but unlikely to make it draw more current

On Mon, Aug 26, 2024 at 4:39 PM John P. Rudy via LCTG <lctg at lists.toku.us>
wrote:

> Thanks for all the details.
>
> I do know to switch the switch to off before moving to on
>
> It has now been on for 7 hours
>
> Having the filthy coils would have made the refrig work harder and they
> are now cleaned
>
> John
>
>
>
> *From:* Ken Pogran <pogran at alum.mit.edu>
> *Sent:* Monday, August 26, 2024 4:32 PM
> *To:* John P. Rudy <jjrudy1 at comcast.net>
> *Cc:* 'Steve Isenberg' <smisenberg at gmail.com>; 'Lex Computer Group' <
> lctg at lists.toku.us>
> *Subject:* Re: [Lex Computer & Tech Group/LCTG] refrig
>
>
>
> John,
>
> My guess is that the problem is with the refrigerator compressor motor or
> its supporting components.  Motors such as these draw far more than the
> usual current as they start; once they are at running speed, the current
> draw decreases to normal. (It's why your lights might dim a little bit when
> your central A/C kicks on, for example.)
>
> Also, some  motors are "capacitor-start", using a capacitor to give the
> motor an extra "kick."  There's usually a centrifugal switch that takes the
> capacitor out of the circuit once the motor is up to speed.
>
> If a motor never gets up to speed, it will continue to draw too much
> current and overload the circuit; eventually the breaker will trip (how
> fast depends on the degree of overload; it's not like a fuse that blows
> instantly).
>
> The motor might not get up to speed because
>
>    - The capacitor has gone bad (open or shorted)
>    - The motor winding has failed in some way
>    - The motor shaft has seized due to failure of bearing lubrication (my
>    Mech. E. dad explained to me that so-called "oilite" bearings—made of
>    sintered bronze—are impregnated with oil under pressure at manufacture.
>    They last a long time with no attention but eventually lose their
>    lubrication, resulting in great friction. He had his own trick for
>    extending the life of a motor by *temporarily* re-lubing such a
>    bearing. Even a ball bearing will eventually fail as the grease it is
>    initially lubricated with eventually dries out.)
>    - The refrigerator's compressor, driven by the motor, has seized,
>    probably for similar reasons.
>
> Or, if the centrifugal switch fails, the motor might be running at full
> speed but the capacitor may still be in the circuit, continuing to draw
> excessive current.
>
> Ken Pogran
>
> P.S.  I trust you know that to reset a tripped breaker, you first move it
> to the OFF position and then to the ON position.
>
> John P. Rudy via LCTG wrote on 8/26/24 11:14 AM:
>
> The extra refrig (with a freezer compartment) is in the garage and both it
> and the separate freezer go to the same outlet box.
>
>
>
> 3 days ago the refrig stopped being cold but the light was on so there was
> power. I didn’t look at the breaker then.
>
>
>
> I removed everything from the refrig/freezer and set the dial from6 to 9
> and left for the weekend.  When I returned last night everything was cold.
>
>
>
> This morning it was warm and the light was off.  One breaker was in the
> middle and I tried to reset it to the left but it wouldn’t hold.  I
> connected the refrig to another circuit and then returned to the breaker
> and this time it did reset.  I returned to the refrig and cleaned the
> coils.  I haven’t pulled it out to try to find the fan.  Then the refrig
> stopped again.
>
>
>
> I returned to the circuit breaker and was able to reset it.  That worked
> for 20 minutes and then it flipped.  I reset it again and all has been fine
> for a half hour.  I’ll check it again in an hour
>
>
>
> No water and no damage to the cord.
>
> The first time the refrig stopped and the light was on the separate
> freezer was working.  When the breaker flipped, both stopped (of course)
>
>
>
> It is an aged Amana refrig
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Steve Isenberg <smisenberg at gmail.com> <smisenberg at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, August 26, 2024 10:56 AM
> *To:* John P. Rudy <jjrudy1 at comcast.net> <jjrudy1 at comcast.net>
> *Cc:* Lex Computer Group <lctg at lists.toku.us> <lctg at lists.toku.us>
> *Subject:* Re: [Lex Computer & Tech Group/LCTG] refrig
>
>
>
> 1. What changed between (when it was working and not tripping the circuit
> breaker) and (now when circuit breaker trips)?
>
> 2. Does the breaker trip as soon as you plug in the refrigerator or reset
> the circuit breaker?
>
> 3. Has it been exposed to water (e.g., flooded basement)?
>
> 4. Could the power cord be damaged?  (rodents might chew on it)
>
>
>
> For #1 I'm wondering if you moved it to a new spot or plugged something
> else in on the same circuit, and then the problem started.
>
> For #2 if it happens immediately when you plug it in or reset the breaker,
> this would make me think there might be a short in the refrigerator (which
> leads to #1, when did this start?)
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, Aug 26, 2024 at 10:48 AM John P. Rudy via LCTG <lctg at lists.toku.us>
> wrote:
>
> I have an old refrigerator.  The circuit breaker has tripped 3 times
> today.  Any suggestions?
>
>
>
> I know I can buy a new refrigerator
>
>
>
> John
>
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